Just like brushing your teeth and washing your face, applying sunscreen should be part of your daily routine. After all, consistently slathering on the SPF is the best thing you can do to prevent skin cancer and keep your skin looking young and healthy. In fact, sunscreen can even help reverse signs of damage by fading dark spots, smoothing texture, and boosting skin brightness, according to research in the journal Dermatologic Surgery.
But what kind of sunscreen should you use? The skincare aisle can be overwhelming—especially with buzzwords like “physical” and “chemical” plastered on labels. We asked a dermatologist to break down the difference between these formulas and how to choose a sunscreen you’ll actually want to wear every day.
How do physical and chemical sunscreens work?
First, it helps to have a little background info about how sunscreens actually do their job. Also known as a mineral sunscreen, “physical sunscreen stays on top of the skin like an umbrella and starts working right away to deflect UV rays,” says Maral Skelsey, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist practicing in Maryland and spokesperson for the Skin Cancer Foundation.
“Chemical sunscreens work a little differently in that instead of deflecting, they absorb UV radiation and reduce how much penetrates the skin,” she adds, so it takes longer for chemical formulations to start working. “That’s why we tell patients to put it on 30 minutes before you’re going to be out in the sun.”
Do physical and chemical sunscreens have different ingredients?
There are 12 different active ingredients that the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) allows in chemical sunscreens, the most common including:
- avobenzone
- oxybenzone
- octisalate
- homosalate
- octinoxate
- homosalate
Meanwhile, there are only two physical blockers with FDA approval: zinc oxide and titanium dioxide—these are “generally recognized as safe” by the FDA. Traditionally, physical ingredients have had a thick, chalky consistency that doesn’t blend as well into skin as chemical ingredients. “But they’re getting better and better in terms of how easy they’re able to be applied and how elegant the formulation is,” notes Dr. Skelsey.
Is physical sunscreen safer than chemical sunscreen?
Last year, the FDA made waves with its announcement that it wants to see more data to ensure that chemical sunscreens meet certain safety standards. Consumers went into panic mode wondering if the products they’ve been using for years could be causing damage to their health.
One point the FDA made was that current research shows oxybenzone, in particular, “is absorbed through the skin to a greater extent than previously understood” and is present in “human breast milk, amniotic fluid, urine, and blood plasma.”
However, Dr. Skelsey points out that just because it’s in the bloodstream doesn’t mean that it’s dangerous. “These sunscreens have been around a long time with no known toxicity even with these detectable levels,” she says. The American Academy of Dermatology also maintains that you should use sunscreen, including those with chemical filters, as the benefits far outweigh any risks.
However, the effects of sunscreen go beyond human health. Research has shown that chemical ingredients, particularly oxybenzone, can be detrimental to our ocean’s coral reefs. While no sunscreen is proven to be 100% reef-safe, physical sunscreens have not yet been found to harm corals, according to the National Park Service.
How to choose the best sunscreen formula
Since both physical and chemical sunscreens are considered effective, it all comes down to personal preference and what product you will use consistently. “You should use one that you like using because the sun is a known carcinogen,” says Dr. Skelsey. “We know that an increase in sun exposure translates to an increased risk of skin cancer.”
Whether you prefer a gel, spray, or stick, she says the critical thing is that it’s something you actually like and will wear all the time (read: reapply every two hours). That said, Dr. Skelsey notes that if you aren’t going to be able to put the product on your skin at least 30 minutes before you step outside, have sensitive skin, or want a reef-friendly option, a physical sunscreen might be your best bet.
But the active ingredients aren’t the only things you should be paying attention to on your sunscreen bottle. Look for one that says “broad spectrum,” as this means the formulation will protect you from both UVA rays (which can lead to skin cancer, wrinkling, and aging) as well as UVB rays (which cause sunburn). Make sure it has an SPF of at least 30, and if you’re going to be swimming or sweating, choose a sunscreen that is water resistant for up to 80 minutes.
If you’re not sure about a particular product, check to see if the Skin Cancer Foundation has awarded it a Seal of Recommendation. These dermatologist-approved picks are also a great starting point:
La Roche-Posay Anthelios Melt-in Milk Sunscreen SPF 100
Blue Lizard Australian Sunscreen, Sensitive SPF 30+
MDSolarSciences Mineral Moisture Defense SPF 50
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Kaitlyn Phoenix
Deputy Health Editor
Kaitlyn Phoenix is a deputy editor in the Hearst Health Newsroom, where she reports, writes and edits research-backed health content for Good Housekeeping, Prevention and Woman's Day. She has more than 10 years of experience talking to top medical professionals and poring over studies to figure out the science of how our bodies work. Beyond that, Kaitlyn turns what she learns into engaging and easy-to-read stories about medical conditions, nutrition, exercise, sleep and mental health. She also holds a B.S. in magazine journalism from Syracuse University.
